Track Setup - Wheel Studs

This is one of the more basic modifications that you can make to your car. However, make no mistake. It's an important one that shouldn't be overlooked!

Why use wheel studs? There are several reasons. Wheel bolts are simply terrible. They have a tendency to cross thread for one. For two, they are typically short, so if you end up using a wheel with a thicker than stock flange or a wheel spacer, you'll be dangerously short on thread contact. For three, wheel bolts have a tendency to seize in place and can become nearly impossible to remove. For sixth, they don't allow for easy wheel to hub alignment when changing tires. For seventh, those cheap Lotus bolt tools have a tendency to break and/or get lost! Need I say more?

I've seen and heard a lot of different techniques on the internet for inserting studs. Most of the time the techniques I hear are terribly wrong. So let's get some things straight. Studs, whether wheels studs, or cylinder head studs, are not installed tight. Just a hair past hand tight is all the tighter they should be. In a situation like a wheel stud, you should use some red loctite to help hold the stud in place when you're removing the lug nut. If anyone tells you to torque the stud into place, quickly correct them to try and stop the misinformation.

For general information related to the Lotus 111 platform, the stud and lug threads need to be M12x1.50mm. This is the same thread that many BMWs use.

To rule out some guesswork, you can purchase these at Sector 111 or Blackwatch Racing

So let's get started with the installation...

First start with a clean hub.

Next, I like to run a tap down the threads to freshen them up. It will ensure that the loctite gets a good hold and the new studs turn in easily. In the case of the Lotus, the tap you need is M12x1.50mm.

You can see the difference between the stock wheel bolt and a high quality wheel stud. You can purchase them at www.sector111.com or www.blackwatchracing.com . Also notice the "bullet nose". This is the sign of a higher quality stud for one. For two, the bullet nose helps to align the lug nut so that it goes on straight when you're in a hurry in the pits...

Before installing the new stud, place a dab of the red loctite on the short portion of the threads that will go into the hub assembly.

You're ready to screw the stud in now. They typically can be threaded in with a hex drive. Notice my hand position here. This is the final torquing of the stud. My hands are open and there's no way I'm putting much torsional strain on the studs. I'm simply screwing the stud in SNUG.

Note: You can see the clean threads the tap left in this pic as well...

Your finished product should look something like this

and